Some Varieties of Indian Embroidery

I am giving below details on some popular varieties of Indian embroidery. The limit to the variety to the art of embroidery is the limit to the human mind’s creativity. So it is very difficult to categorize exhaustively. Still, depending upon the repeating basic patterns used, embroidery can be classified for our own understanding and identification.

Kasuthi

Kasuti  is a traditional form of embroidery practiced in the state of Karnataka, India. Kasuti work involves embroidering very intricate patterns like gopura, chariot, palanquin, lamps and conch shells. This falls under the category of counted thread embroidery. Fine needles need to be selected as the embroidery will be worked with a single strand of thread. Kasuthi net is available. Embroidery is done using this net; once a motif is done, the strings of the used net are gently taken apart. The work is laborious and involves counting of each stitch on the cloth. The patterns are stitched without using knots to ensure that embroidery on both sides of the cloth look alike. The following pictures show kasuti embroidery I have done on a saree blouse and also other designs.

Chikankari

Chikankari embroidery is centered in Uttar Pradesh, mainly Lucknow. It is worked mostly with double back stitch (which we may call herringbone stitch worked on the wrong side) and with white thread. Other stitches used are stem stitch, eyelet stitch and French knots. When Chikankari is worked in a semi transparent or transparent fabric like the mulmuls or muslin, it gives a shadow effect on the facing side of the fabric and we call it the shadow embroidery. This gives a wonderful effect when worked white thread and also in coloured threads. The following picture shows chikankari work on a kameez.

Kantha

Kantha embroidery is popular in West Bengal and Bangladesh. This exquisite form of embroidery is all made out of the simple running stitch. Other stitches used are darning stitch, satin and loop stitch. Stem stitch, back stitch or running stitch is used to outline motifs. Motifs used in kantha embroidery are human and animal figures and floral symbols. Kantha is an apt form of embroidery to represent Warli drawings too. This picture shows a motif from a kantha embroidered saree.

Kutch Embroidery

Kutch work is a unique form of embroidery done is parts of Gujarat. The stitches used are a unique form of interlacing stitch and herringbone stitch. Other simple stitches like stem stich and laisy daisy are used to give additional effects. Mirror work forms a main part of Kutch embroidery. This picture is the yoke of a kameez embroidered by me.

Phulkari

Phulkari, an embroidery technique from the Punjab in India and Pakistan literally means flower working, which was at one time used as the word for embroidery, but in time the word “Phulkari” became restricted to embroidered shawls and head scarfs. It is mostly done in long and short darn stitch. The following picture shows a phulkari embroidery piece I got from the Net.

Kashmiri

Kashmiri embroidery is also known as Kashida. It is a colorful and beautiful form of embroidery the designs of which mainly draws inspiration from the beautiful nature around. The motifs of flowers, creepers and chinar leaves, mango etc. are the most common ones. The whole pattern is created using one or two embroidery stitch styles. The commonly used stitches are chain stitch, satin stitch, the slanted darn stitch, stem, herringbone and sometimes the doori or knot stitches. But, at at time, only one or two stitches are used. See thsi example from the Net.

Hope you had a good reading; believe that the pictures delighted you.