Small Project

Now is another exciting part of this program. Here I give you a pattern that you can draw/print, transfer to a cloth by tracing and then do a fascinating work with all the stitches you have learnt.

Here is the picture and clues on what stitch to use and where. Hope you will enjoy doing this!! Good luck!! Any art is perfected by lot of practice. So, whenever you find an interesting design, why don’t you turn it into an exciting piece of embroidery??!!

 Hope you will have a great time with this art!!!!

Learn To Trace

Now that you have learnt to embroider some basic stitches, I would be glad to give you instructions on how to trace a simple design and transfer it on to a cloth. Here are the steps with pictures.

Materials Required for Tracing

1.      Design/pattern

     2.      Tracing sheet

3.      Pencil or an empty refill of a ball point pen

4.      Carbon paper – Yellow or White colour

5.      Fabric on which the design need to be transfered

Note: You can get carbon sheets from craft stores as well as stationery stores. Use yello carbon sheet for white cloth and yellow or white carbon sheet for other colour cloths. The blue or black carbon sheets stain the cloth badly if not used with knack.

Method

1. First and foremost, choose a design to embroider. You may search for designs on the Internet or get some basic design books from the craft stores. If you are good at drawing, you can draw your own design. But, I suggest that you make it simple the first time.

Here is the design I choose to embroider.

2. Place the tracing paper over the chosen design.

3. Hold the tracing paper firmly with your left hand. Using a pencil or a ball point pen, trace the design carefully on the tracing sheet.

4. Take the cloth to which you want to transfer the design. Decide where on the cloth you want to transfer the design. Place the carbon sheet with the white side up and the carbon side touching the cloth. Place the tracing paper with the design on the carbon sheet. Be very careful about the position of the design, carbon sheet and the cloth.

5. Now using a semi-sharp pencil or an empty refill of a ball point pen, firmly re-draw the design on the tracing paper. Take care to hold the cloth, carbon sheet and the tracing paper all in one place firmly with your left hand.

6. Once you have drawn the whole design, remove the tracing paper and the carbon carefully.

7. CONGRATS!!! Now you have got the design on the cloth, ready for the embroidery.

Hemming

As hemming is a bit tricky for beginners, I am giving the pictures also, in addition to video.

I suggest that initially you learn hemming using cotton cloth. Also practice hemming in cotton cloth till you master it. You may try the edges of cotton saris and towels also. Once you have mastered the stitch, you can try it in any fabric material.

Here is the video. Below the video I am giving step-by-step pictures also.

1. Trim the edges of the fabric neatly with sharp scissors.
2. Start with one edge. Fold the edge uniformly for about ¼ inch or 0.5cm. Fold this again.
3. Thread a needle with one strand of thread of contrasting to work the edges of the embroidered piece that you have done now. Note that, if you want to do hemming for sari seams or towel seams, you have to use matching thread. For such purposes you need not use the embroidery strands. You can use normal sewing threads.
4. Now start from your right hand side following the pictures given below.

Start with an edge and make a fold of about 1/2 a centimeter or 1/4 inch and crease the edge.

Make a second fold as shown.

Hemming is worked from right to left. Pick up a double folded edge. Follow the picture.



The following picture shows how hemming looks on the right side of the fabric. 

Continue this on all sides to get a neat finish for your embroidered piece.

This is how the embroidered piece will look on the wrong side, once hemming is done on all sides.

And, here is the embroidered piece on the right side. Notice the hemming.

Satin Stitch

Satin stitch is a type of filling stitch. It is generally used to do the flower petals, sometimes leaves and others patterns that require filling. See the following star that I have done with satin stitch.

Please watch the video and learn the stitch carefully. This needs a bit of attention and practice. So I suggest that you practice this as many times as you can.

Fly Stitch

Fly is another stitch that can be used for decorating a fabric creatively.
Closely worked fly stitch can be used for filling also.

Watch this demo to do it yourself!!

Buttonhole Stitch

Buttonhole stitch is also called blanket stitch. I suggest that you draw a double line to practise this stitch so that you get a even line of stitches.

In the picture below, see that the buttonhole stitch is used creatively.

Learn to do the stitch yourself from this video.

Chain Stitch

With tiny chain stitches you can create beautiful patterns. I have done this 'KOLAM' embroidery in chain stitch, with single strand of thread throughout.

Here are a couple inspiring embroidery in chain stitch.



1. Thread a needle with 2 strands of Anchor stranded cotton thread.
2. Tie a knot at the other end of the thread.

Note: As you do the embroidery, the thread becomes shorter. When about 3 inches of the thread is left in the needle, push the needle to the back side of the cloth and tie a knot. Take another length of 2 strands of thread and start stitching from the point you left earlier.

Here is the video demo for you to learn the stitch.

Stem Stitch

Stem stitch is another simple stitch that you can use to do the stems of a plant or even a continuous line of embroidery as per your imagination.

1. Thread a needle with 2 strands of Anchor stranded cotton thread.
2. Tie a knot at the other end of the thread.

Note: As you do the embroidery, the thread becomes shorter. When about 3 inches of the thread is left in the needle, push the needle to the back side of the cloth and tie a knot. Take another length of 2 strands of thread and start stitching from the point you left earlier.

Here is the video for stem stitch.

Back Stitch

See this cute little birdie done in back stitch. I got this picture from the net.

Here I give a video demo of the stitch. Will be glad to know how you did this stitch.

1. Thread a needle with 2 strands of Anchor stranded cotton thread.
2. Tie a knot at the other end of the thread.

Note: As you do the embroidery, the thread becomes shorter. When about 3 inches of the thread is left in the needle, push the needle to the back side of the cloth and tie a knot. Take another length of 2 strands of thread and start stitching from the point you left earlier.

Running Stitch

Look at this fascinating picture of Kantha embroidery. The simple running stitch is the basis of this eye-catching Kantha embroidery.

Here is a short video demonstrating the running stitch.

1. Thread a needle with 2 strands of Anchor stranded cotton thread.
2. Tie a knot at the other end of the thread.

Note: As you do the embroidery, the thread becomes shorter. When about 3 inches of the thread is left in the needle, push the needle to the back side of the cloth and tie a knot. Take another length of 2 strands of thread and start stitching from the point you left earlier.

Try this!!

I'll be glad to know how friendly the demo is. Do let me know!

Preparing the Cloth

Please see the picture below. I had previously asked you to get ready a poplin cloth measuring 15 inches by 12 inches. Leave about 1 and 1/2 inch gap from all the 4 sides/edges and draw 6 lines using scale and pencil as shown in the figure. In the middle draw a small flower with 5 petals. This flower is for the satin stitch. Take care to draw thin lines. Do not draw very thick lines with very dark pencils. Otherwise the pencil marks may stain the cloth.

On each lines you will do one stitch.

Making A Knot At One End Of The Thread

I suggest you to watch this video a couple of times to learn to tie a know, and treat the following instructions as reference later.

I would also refer you to this site which gives great pictures teaching how to make a knot.
http://www.wikihow.com/Thread-a-Needle-and-Tie-a-Knot

Anyway, here are my instructions.

1. Hold the threaded needle on its neck firmly on your left hand, so that the thread does not pull off.
2. Pick up the other end of the thread on your right hand, between the thumb and the index finger.
3. Twist and make a loop with the thread around your index finger.
4. Now gently slide your finger and thumb against each other, rolling the thread. That is, twist/roll the loop by pressing the index finger against the thumb and moving the index finger towards the base of the thumb. You get a twisted loop.
5. Gently gather and pull this loop to the end of the thread using your index finger or the middle finger. A knot is tied.

Threading the Needle

You may watch this video a couple of times to learn to thread a needle and treat the following instructions as reference later.

1. Hold the needle on your right hand with the eye of the needle on top.
2. Hold two strands of the thread on your left hand.
3. Gently push the two strands through the eye of the needle.
4. Pull the strands at the other side of the eye with your left hand to about 4 to 5 inches.
5. Lo!! Now you have threaded the needle.

 

Cutting the Thread

Here I am going to tell you how to cut the necessary length of thread from the Anchor stranded cotton skein.

The following picture shows the thread skeins. Each skein is made up of 6 strands. We are going to use two strands of thread throughout our lessons.

Here is a video you may watch to learn to cut the necessary length of thread.

1. Pick a colour of your choice.
2. Locate an end of the skein.
3. Gently pull out the end to about two feet or 24 inches length.
4. Cut the thread of length about 16 inches.
5. Hold one end of the thread. Pick up two strands on one hand and 4 strands on the other. Gently pull the ends apart.
6. Now the thread below starts twisting and if you pull apart very fast you are sure to get the thread tangled. Gently untwist the thread and then again pull the two ends apart. Do this till the threads on the two hands separate completely.

Fantastic!!! you have now learnt to pull the threads apart!!
Now thread the needle with two strands of thread. (Threading the needle is explained in a separate)
When this thread gets over while embroidering, you can pull out another two stands from the left out 4 strands.

Mounting the Fabric on to the Frame

Here is a crisp video that shows you how you can mount the fabric on the embroidery frame. It is easy to view the crisp video. You may watch this video a couple of times to learn and treat the following instructions as reference later.

Note that for the initial stitches that you will learn, you may not use the frame, as the fabric that you use will be quite small in size. But it is always advisable to use frames as the stitches will be neat and you will not pucker the fabric accidentally. I suggest that you use frame definitely for satin stitch. For hemming, we cannot use the frame as hemming is done along the edges by folding the fabric.

Note:

You may or may not use the frame for learning the stitches. I suggest you to use the frame compulsorily for satin stitch though!!

Any way I am giving the step-by-step instructions below.

·         Slightly loosen the screw so that the two parts of the frame come apart loosely.

·         Place the full ring (without the screw) on a clean floor/table.

·         Place the fabric on this frame with the portion to be embroidered almost at the centre.

·         Now place the ring with the screw over the fabric to fit the bottom ring.

·         Gently bring both the rings together with the fabric in the middle.

·         Slightly tighten the screw to bring the two rings close together leaving a little space for the fabric to move.

·         Stretch the fabric outside the frame so that the fabric is taught.

·         Keep tightening the screw a bit and stretching the fabric little by little alternately so that the fabric is taught.

·         Now tighten the screw till you feel that the fabric will not loosen from the frame.

Materials Required

I am listing the materials needed to start with your lessons. Please note that the terminologies are as in vogue in India as I am based in Chennai.

See the following picture. It shows all necessary materials. I am also giving more details on each material below.

1. Fabric: Buy half a meter of white poplin cloth. You may buy more if you want to do more embroidery after finishing the lessons.
   
   For learning the stitches, cut a piece measuring 15 inches by 12 inches.
   For project work 22 inches by 17 inches.
2. Embroidery Frame: 8 inches or 10 inches frame.
3. Needle: Embroidery needle. Note that there is a difference between ordinary stitching needle and embroidery needle. The eye of an embroidery needle in long/elongated.
4. Anchor Embroidery Stranded Cotton Skeins – 2 or 3 shades: Buy bright shades like parrot green, bright orange, copper sulphate blue. If you use dark colour in the initial stages, each stitch and its neatness may not be very much visible for you to appreciate. If you use very light shades, the embroidery may not look impressive on a white cloth. The Anchor hand embroidery skeins look as in this picture.
   

5. A Pair of Sharp Scissors: Please use good scissors. Also take care that you do not use this scissors for any other purpose like cutting paper/ milk covers etc. :) This would spoil the sharpness of the scissors when you again use it on cloth.
6. Foot Scale, Sharp Pencil: A foot scale and pencil shall be used to draw lines on the cloth.

Organization of the Program

Please see the table below. I give here the list of topics that I am covering in this program, and the description for each.

Topic No.	Topic Title
1.	Introduction to Embroidery
2.	Some Varieties of Indian Embroidery
3.	Organization of the Course
4.	Materials Required
5.	Mounting the Fabric on the Frame
6.	Threading the Needle
7.	Making a Knot at the End of the Thread
8.	Running Stitch
9.	Back Stitch
10.	Stem Stitch
11.	Chain Stitch
12.	Buttonhole Stitch
13.	Fly Stitch
14.	Satin Stitch
15.	Hemming
16.	Learning to Trace
17.	Project Work Description

Some Varieties of Indian Embroidery

I am giving below details on some popular varieties of Indian embroidery. The limit to the variety to the art of embroidery is the limit to the human mind’s creativity. So it is very difficult to categorize exhaustively. Still, depending upon the repeating basic patterns used, embroidery can be classified for our own understanding and identification.

Kasuthi

Kasuti  is a traditional form of embroidery practiced in the state of Karnataka, India. Kasuti work involves embroidering very intricate patterns like gopura, chariot, palanquin, lamps and conch shells. This falls under the category of counted thread embroidery. Fine needles need to be selected as the embroidery will be worked with a single strand of thread. Kasuthi net is available. Embroidery is done using this net; once a motif is done, the strings of the used net are gently taken apart. The work is laborious and involves counting of each stitch on the cloth. The patterns are stitched without using knots to ensure that embroidery on both sides of the cloth look alike. The following pictures show kasuti embroidery I have done on a saree blouse and also other designs.

Chikankari

Chikankari embroidery is centered in Uttar Pradesh, mainly Lucknow. It is worked mostly with double back stitch (which we may call herringbone stitch worked on the wrong side) and with white thread. Other stitches used are stem stitch, eyelet stitch and French knots. When Chikankari is worked in a semi transparent or transparent fabric like the mulmuls or muslin, it gives a shadow effect on the facing side of the fabric and we call it the shadow embroidery. This gives a wonderful effect when worked white thread and also in coloured threads. The following picture shows chikankari work on a kameez.

Kantha

Kantha embroidery is popular in West Bengal and Bangladesh. This exquisite form of embroidery is all made out of the simple running stitch. Other stitches used are darning stitch, satin and loop stitch. Stem stitch, back stitch or running stitch is used to outline motifs. Motifs used in kantha embroidery are human and animal figures and floral symbols. Kantha is an apt form of embroidery to represent Warli drawings too. This picture shows a motif from a kantha embroidered saree.

Kutch Embroidery

Kutch work is a unique form of embroidery done is parts of Gujarat. The stitches used are a unique form of interlacing stitch and herringbone stitch. Other simple stitches like stem stich and laisy daisy are used to give additional effects. Mirror work forms a main part of Kutch embroidery. This picture is the yoke of a kameez embroidered by me.

Phulkari

Phulkari, an embroidery technique from the Punjab in India and Pakistan literally means flower working, which was at one time used as the word for embroidery, but in time the word “Phulkari” became restricted to embroidered shawls and head scarfs. It is mostly done in long and short darn stitch. The following picture shows a phulkari embroidery piece I got from the Net.

Kashmiri

Kashmiri embroidery is also known as Kashida. It is a colorful and beautiful form of embroidery the designs of which mainly draws inspiration from the beautiful nature around. The motifs of flowers, creepers and chinar leaves, mango etc. are the most common ones. The whole pattern is created using one or two embroidery stitch styles. The commonly used stitches are chain stitch, satin stitch, the slanted darn stitch, stem, herringbone and sometimes the doori or knot stitches. But, at at time, only one or two stitches are used. See thsi example from the Net.

Hope you had a good reading; believe that the pictures delighted you.